Tailgate Strut Replacement Tutorial For Beginners
Replace tailgate struts by safely supporting the hatch, releasing the old gas struts from their ball sockets or bolts, matching the replacement parts by length and fitting style, then snapping or bolting the new struts into place and testing the tailgate for smooth operation.
Why the tailgate feels heavy
A weak gas strut is the most common reason a tailgate suddenly feels heavy, drops too fast, or refuses to stay open. In practice, the lift assist inside the strut loses pressure over time, so the hatch no longer receives the support it was designed to provide.
Most DIY guides describe this as a straightforward repair, and the job is usually limited to basic hand tools, a safe prop for the hatch, and a replacement pair of struts. Several repair tutorials also note that struts are commonly changed in pairs so the tailgate opens evenly and the new parts wear at the same rate.
What you need
Before starting the replacement job, gather the correct parts and tools so the hatch stays controlled the whole time. The exact attachment style varies by vehicle, but common setups use either ball-socket clips or bolt-mounted brackets.
- Replacement tailgate struts matched to your vehicle.
- A prop rod, wood block, broom handle, or a helper to hold the tailgate open.
- Flathead screwdriver or trim tool for retaining clips.
- Socket or wrench if your struts are bolted in place.
- Work gloves and eye protection.
- Light lubricant for stubborn fittings, if needed.
Step-by-step tutorial
The safest way to handle a tailgate strut replacement is to stabilize the hatch first and never rely on the failing strut to support weight. Some tutorials recommend propping the lid with a helper or a sturdy object before you disconnect anything.
- Open the tailgate fully and secure it with a prop or helper.
- Inspect both ends of each strut so you know whether the fitting is clipped or bolted.
- Remove any retaining clip, circlip, or locking tab with a small screwdriver.
- Pop the strut end off the ball stud, or remove the mounting nut or bolt if the strut is bracket-mounted.
- Repeat the process on the other end of the strut.
- Remove the second strut if your vehicle uses a pair, since many guides recommend replacing both together.
- Compare the old and new parts for length, end fittings, and orientation before installation.
- Attach the new strut to the lower or upper mount first, then press or bolt the opposite end into place.
- Reinstall any clips or locking hardware so the fittings cannot walk off the mount.
- Test the tailgate several times to confirm smooth opening, full lift assist, and secure closure.
Fitting types
Understanding the mounting style matters because the removal method changes depending on the hardware. A ball-socket design usually releases with a pry motion, while a bolted design needs the nut or bolt removed before the strut can come free.
| Fitting style | How it comes off | Typical tool | Common note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ball socket | Clip or lever end off the ball stud | Flat screwdriver | Usually the fastest style to service |
| Bolt mounted | Remove nut or bolt from bracket | Socket or wrench | May also hold the safety cable on some tailgates |
| Circlip retained | Release the circlip, then pull the strut free | Pry tool | Common on certain hatch and boot-lid designs |
Safety details
A failed lift support can let a hatch drop without warning, so keep your hands and head clear of the opening while removing the old part. One tutorial explicitly warns that the strut is filled with high-pressure gas, which is why controlled removal matters.
"Prop the lid first, then remove the old strut in a controlled way."
That simple rule prevents the tailgate from crashing down while the support is disconnected, especially on large SUVs, hatchbacks, and wagons. If a fitting is rusted or stubborn, do not force it toward your face; work from the side and keep the hatch mechanically supported until both new struts are installed.
Common mistakes
The most common DIY error is installing only one new strut when the other side is already weak. Replacing a single side may temporarily improve the hatch, but many guides recommend doing both at once so the gate lifts evenly and the repair lasts longer.
Another mistake is ignoring the part number or physical size of the original strut, which can lead to a hatch that opens too slowly, too aggressively, or not fully at all. A good match should align with the old part's length, stroke, and attachment style before you commit to the install.
When to replace
You should plan for a strut swap if the tailgate sinks, needs a hard shove to open, closes faster than it should, or will not stay open in cool weather. Those symptoms usually mean the internal gas pressure has dropped enough that the support force is no longer reliable.
In practical terms, many drivers notice the problem first in colder months because weakened struts often lose performance more noticeably as temperatures fall. A hatch that used to lift itself partway and now needs manual help is a strong sign the supports are near the end of their service life.
Time and difficulty
Most tailgate repairs of this type are beginner-friendly and can be completed quickly once the correct parts are in hand. A typical swap often takes about 15 to 30 minutes for a straightforward ball-socket setup, though hidden brackets, rust, or trim panels can add time.
For context, instructional videos on this repair commonly present it as a short, repeatable maintenance task rather than a major mechanical project. That makes it one of the easier exterior repairs on a hatchback, SUV, or wagon.
Practical checklist
Use this final check before closing the hatch for good after installation.
- Both struts are installed in the correct orientation.
- All clips, bolts, and retaining hardware are secure.
- The tailgate opens smoothly without binding.
- The hatch stays fully open on its own.
- The tailgate closes evenly and latches normally.
Final advice
The best repair outcome comes from matching the right part, supporting the hatch correctly, and replacing both sides when applicable. Done carefully, this is one of the simplest fixes for a tailgate that feels heavy, and it restores the controlled lift and safe hold-open function that the vehicle had when new.
Everything you need to know about Tailgate Strut Replacement Tutorial For Beginners
Can I replace only one tailgate strut?
You can, but replacing both is usually better because the older strut may be close to failure and can make the hatch lift unevenly.
Do I need special tools?
Usually no. Most jobs need only a screwdriver, a socket or wrench on some vehicles, and something sturdy to hold the hatch open safely.
How do I know which strut to buy?
Match the old part number, length, end fittings, and mounting style before ordering a replacement.
Why won't the tailgate stay up after replacement?
That usually means the wrong strut was installed, the pair is mismatched, or one of the mounts was not fully secured.
Are hidden struts harder to replace?
They can be, because the mounting points may be less visible, but the same core process still applies: support the hatch, release the old support, and install the new one carefully.