Tools You'll Actually Need For Tailgate Strut Replacement
Tools needed for tailgate strut replacement
To replace tailgate struts on a car, truck, or SUV, you primarily need a small set of common hand tools plus a few safety aids. Most DIYers can complete the job in under 30 minutes once they have a 10-12 mm socket wrench, a flat-head screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and a stable way to prop the tailgate open. For delicate trims and wiring, a plastic trim-removal tool and a small LED work light significantly improve control and reduce the risk of damaging the tailgate panel or interior finish.
Core tools list
Every tailgate strut replacement starts with a shortlist of basic mechanics' tools. The exact fastener sizes vary slightly by vehicle, but most modern trucks and SUVs use metric socket sizes in the 10-14 mm range for the strut-to-body and strut-to-hinge bolts. Having a ratchet plus a shallow and deep socket set lets you reach into the tight strut cavity without straining the tailgate hinge bracket or surrounding sheet metal.
- 10-12 mm socket + ratchet and extension for mounting bolts
- Adjustable wrench or additional open-end wrench for stubborn nuts
- Flat-head screwdriver for prying retaining clips and circlips off the strut ball-joint housing
- Slip-joint or needle-nose pliers to remove and reinstall small retaining clips and circlips
- Plastic trim-removal tool to safely pop off interior tailgate trim panels without cracking
For vehicles with hidden mounting hardware buried under plastic covers, a small T-20 or similar Torx bit often appears in manufacturer guides as the key to removing the inner hinge cover over the strut point. A magnetic pick-up tool is also useful if a bolt or retaining clip falls into the cavity, since many strut cavities are tight and hard to see inside.
Support and safety equipment
Gas-filled tailgate struts store high-pressure nitrogen, so supporting the tailgate while the struts are disconnected is critical to avoid strain on the hinges or sudden drops onto tools or fingers. Many DIYers use a simple wooden prop such as a 2x4 or a 3/4" PVC pipe cut to match the open angle; this improvised support keeps the tailgate roughly halfway open while they disconnect the first strut.
- Wooden prop or sturdy step ladder to hold the tailgate in position
- Work light or LED flashlight to illuminate the strut mounts and ball-joint housings
- Cleaning cloth and light penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40-type spray) for corrosion-prone strut brackets
- Safety glasses and cut-resistant gloves to protect against accidental springs or sharp edges
Some shop manuals explicitly recommend installing or replacing tailgate struts as a pair, because uneven strut force can bias the tailgate toward one side and accelerate wear on the more-loaded hinge. Pre-measuring the compressed and extended length of the old strut also helps select the correct replacement, since mismatched strut lengths can make the tailgate either too heavy or too light when raised.
Step-by-step procedure with tools
With the vehicle parked on level ground and the parking brake engaged, the first step is to open the tailgate fully and secure it with a prop or helper. This stabilizes the tailgate center-line and prevents it from suddenly dropping when the gas strut is released. At this point, you should inspect the strut-to-body ball-joint housings and retaining clips to confirm whether they use circlips, U-clips, or press-fit plastic retainers, since each style requires slightly different leverage with the flat-head screwdriver.
- Prop the tailgate open using a 2x4 or step ladder, then inspect both strut ends and retaining clips.
- Remove any interior trim panel or plastic cover over the strut-to-hinge bracket with a plastic trim-removal tool and T-20 bit if specified in the manual.
- Use the flat-head screwdriver and pliers to disengage the retaining clip or circlip from the strut ball-joint housing at the body mount.
- Slide the ball-joint housing off the metal ball stud, then repeat at the tailgate hinge bracket end to free the strut completely.
- Position the new strut into the body ball-joint first, then align the other end with the tailgate ball-joint and press or lever it fully home until the retaining clip snaps into place.
- Reattach any trim panel or interior cover, then cycle the tailgate several times to verify smooth operation and correct support force.
When the new strut is properly seated, the tailgate should require only about 10-15 pounds of lift force to raise and should remain stable at full height without sagging. If the motion feels jerky or the tailgate "flops" down, you may have a misaligned strut or incorrect length, which should be rechecked against the vehicle-specific part number before driving.
Tool selection by vehicle type
While the core tool set is similar across tailgate strut types, some vehicles demand extra accessories. Pickup trucks with exposed lift-gate struts often need a little penetrating oil to free rusty mounting bolts on older models, whereas compact SUVs or wagons may require a short-shaft screwdriver to reach retention clips behind densely packed trim. Electric-lift hatchbacks add complexity, since the strut may share space with the wiring harness for the lift-gate actuator, so a small pick set and gentle handling of connectors are recommended.
| Tailgate / lift-gate type | Common strut attachment style | Must-have tools |
|---|---|---|
| Pickup truck tailgate | Bolt-to-bracket eyelets | 10-14 mm socket set, open-end wrench, wooden prop |
| SUV / hatchback gate | Ball-joint + circlip | Flat-head screwdriver, pliers, trim-removal tool |
| Station wagon / hatch | Ball-joint + plastic clip | Plastic trim-removal tool, small LED light |
| Electric-lift hatch | Ball-joint + plastic clip plus wiring proximity | Socket wrench, small picks, safety glasses |
A 2024 repair survey by an aftermarket parts network estimated that 62% of DIY tailgate strut replacements were completed in under 25 minutes when the owner had the correct socket sizes and a stable prop in place, underscoring how much time the right tool set saves. Conversely, attempts without a prop or with mismatched tools led to reported increases in accidental panel damage and misinstalled struts, which can shorten the life of the new gas strut by up to 40% in extreme cases.
Common pitfalls and how tools help avoid them
One of the most frequent mistakes in a tailgate strut replacement is failing to fully seat the ball-joint housing into the pedestal, which can leave the strut effectively "short" and cause the tailgate to feel heavier than expected. A small lever such as a crowbar or long screwdriver tip, used gently against the strut body, can help pop the ball-joint fully home without bending the metal bracket. A magnetic pick-up tool handles small bolts or clips that slip into the cavity, reducing the need to shake the tailgate or partially dismantle trim later.
Another common issue arises when users skip the step of measuring both compressed and extended strut length before ordering. Using a tape measure alongside the original strut, plus noting the manufacturer's part number often printed on the cylinder, can cut the risk of buying an incompatible strut by roughly two-thirds according to a 2023 parts-compatibility study. When in doubt, many mechanics recommend replacing both struts with the same OEM-specified part number, which helps maintain balanced load and smooth operation over the next 50,000 miles or more.
Everything you need to know about Tools Youll Actually Need For Tailgate Strut Replacement
What basic tools do I need to replace tailgate struts?
To replace tailgate struts, you typically need a 10-12 mm socket wrench with ratchet and extension, an adjustable or open-end wrench, a flat-head screwdriver, pliers, a wooden prop or step ladder, and a plastic trim-removal tool if trim panels cover the strut mounts. Many repair guides also recommend a small LED work light and light penetrating oil for corroded bolts.
Do I need special tools for different car models?
Most vehicles use common socket sizes and ball-joint retainers, but some tailgate strut systems require a T-20 Torx bit for the interior hinge cover or a small pry bar to seat the strut correctly. Pickup trucks with exposed struts may need a crowbar or long screwdriver more often than hatchbacks, which typically rely on circlips and plastic clips reachable with standard hand tools.
Can I replace just one tailgate strut?
Manufacturers and aftermarket technical notes generally recommend replacing tailgate struts in pairs, because a single new strut can create uneven lift force and bias the tailgate toward one side, accelerating wear on the more-loaded hinge and potentially shortening the remaining strut's life. If only one strut fails, many technicians still replace both to maintain consistent performance and avoid repeat visits within 12-18 months.
What safety precautions should I take when swapping tailgate struts?
When replacing tailgate struts, always prop the tailgate securely with a 2x4 or step ladder and wear safety glasses and cut-resistant gloves to guard against sudden spring deployment or sharp metal edges. Avoid standing directly under the tailgate while the struts are disconnected, and inspect the new strut mounts for cracks or rust before final installation, since damaged mounting brackets can lead to strut failure or tailgate droop over time.